After fishing a couple of times in windy conditions, I discovered what a pain it was to keep the boat in a fixed orientation. The Hobie Pro Angler is a big boat, and it moves around quite a bit with the wind and the current, even when securely anchored. An anchor trolley seems like a good solution.
I purchased a Yak Gear anchor trolley kit for about $35. It had all of the components needed in one package, but you can put together a bill of materials pretty easily if you want to buy everything seperately.
The trolley basically consists of two pulleys, one at the bow and one at the stern of the boat, with a rope run through them. The anchor line is attached to this rope so that you can move the anchor point up and down the length of the boat. Some eyelets and a cleat keep the line secure in close to the boat. The theory is that you can keep the boat in a more or less fixed orientation since you are now securing two points on the boat instead of just one.
Installation is straightforward. If it wasn’t 115 degrees out, I would have had the whole thing done in less than an hour. As it is, I had to take a lot of water breaks.
The recommended positions of the pulleys are 12″ from the bow/stern, and 3″ down from the deck. In order to preserve the decals on the boat, I adjusted the measurements a little.
I marked the recommended location, and then held the pulley up to the boat to see how far to adjust. Then, I drilled the first hole to secure it. At first, I drilled a pilot hole, then enlarged it with a unibit to the correct size to hold the expanding nut.
Once the pulleys were done, I installed the eyelets. These are placed half way between the pulleys and the location of the cleat. The cleat is placed near the seat so that I can just reach over the side and set the line.
The eyelets use a regular machine screw and nylock nut, so they require some marine silicone sealant. The kit did not come with washers, but I decided to add some. They are #10 cad plated.
It turns out that I was able to access the inside of the hull in order to tighten down the nuts. However, the kit does come with some blind rivets to allow for installations that do not have that access. You do of course need a rivet puller to install those.
The final bit of drilling is for installing the Z-cleat, which was strategically positioned to avoid covering the decals at midship. The cleat is installed with self tapping screws, so a healthy dose of silicone and some pilot holes are all that are needed here.
The final step is to run the rope through the pulleys and tie it to the triangular tether piece. One side is permanently assembled with some hog rings, which are then covered with some shrink tubing to keep it tidy.
The other end just has a fishing knot. They recommend leaving a little length here for adjustments in the future. I left a few inches, but I also put some shrink tubing on that end to keep the rope from fraying, and secured everything with a plastic zip tie.